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What Are The Changes At Bingham Lake?

Invitation To Visit Facilities

How can I identify a District employee in my neighborhood?

Why has my water pressure been reduced, or come to a complete halt?

Where is my master water shutoff valve?

Why is the District flushing good water down the drain?

Turf Management Before, During, and Following Drought in Colorado

Tips For Saving Water Indoors

Tips For Saving Water Outdoors

How Hard Is My Water?

Rain & Moisture Sensors

Your Water Meter

Where Does Our Water Get Used?

Tree Root Control

Fats, Oils, & Greases aren't just artery and waistline killers…..they're bad for sewers, too!

Why does my water appear milky or cloudy?

Should I buy a water softener?

Should I buy a home filtration unit?

What should I do if my coffee has an oily appearance?

What causes the hot water to have an odor?

Why does the taste of my water change throughout the year?

What causes water to be discolored?

Is bottled water higher quality than tap water?

Did you know the biggest water waster in your house can be your toilet!?

 

 



Bingham Lake

Zebra mussels are small barnacle-like mollusks with dark and light colored stripes. They smother aquatic organisms, such as crayfish and native clams and out compete for food and aquatic habitat. Zebra mussels damage equipment by attaching to boat motors or hard surfaces and clog water treatment facilities.   Zebra and Quagga mussels were originally detected in Pueblo Reservoir and Lake Granby. The District’s Board of Directors has adopted a Resolution prohibiting all activities which might pose a threat of causing a Zebra and/or Quagga mussel infestation in Bingham Lake.

Effective September 2, 2008 boating of all types, use of float tubes, and wading in the lake (with or without waders) is prohibited. Fishing is still permitted from the shore and from the dock. The Board will continue to monitor the spread of the Mussels in the State and will modify these changes in the management of the Lake events unfold. Thank you in advance for your cooperation.

Additional information is available at:
  Colorado Division of Wildlife (Mussels)
  100th Meridian (Mussels)

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Invitation to Visit Facilities

The District would like to extend an invitation to visit facilities operated by the District for Water Treatment, Water Distribution, Wastewater Collection, Wastewater Treatment and Reclamation.  Interested parties, individuals, schools, homeowner associations, etc., can contact our office at (303)841-2797 to set up tour dates or obtain additional information.  District representatives are available to attend community gatherings for informational presentations.

Topics of tours or presentations can include:

  • Current Water Treatment Methods
  • Distribution System Operations & Maintenance
  • Water Conservation Program
  • Wastewater Treatment & Water Reclamation
  • Wastewater Collection System
  • Biosolids Production & Beneficial Reuse Program

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How can I identify a District Employee in my neighborhood?

To help you identify District employees when they are in your neighborhood or servicing an issue at your home, please note that our employees will be driving a District truck (clearly marked with the District logo) and wearing attire also sporting the District logo.

If you’re ever in doubt, please call the District office (303)841-2797. 

 

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Why has my water pressure been reduced, or come to a complete halt?

In the middle of the winter season and almost every year, the District receives calls from homeowners who have lost water service. The majority of frozen water lines actually occur inside the house. Water service lines are buried in the earth nearly 5’ down and rarely does the frost get that deep.  However, if an outside pipe does freeze, it most often occurs in a sprinkler system that has not been properly winterized or in the water meter pit. Most water meters in the District are installed in a meter pit located outside, near your property line. The ground temperature at the bottom of the meter pit typically prevents the meter from freezing.  Also, the meter cover is designed to insulate the meter from the surface temperature.

Back inside your home, the slightest chilly draft near plumbing lines is capable of freezing the water line.  Home-owners are encouraged to check where their water service line enters the home and follow the piping.  Small gaps in the exterior woodwork just above the top of the foundation or basement wall are the usual culprits.  These gaps allow cold air from the outside to enter the room.  If the basement is finished, then this cold air enters the wall. Properly insulating the water line from the cold air and caulking seams or holes near the piping greatly improves your chances of having uninterrupted water service in cold weather.
If you are away on vacation or not occupying your home during the winter, think about having someone check your home and running the water occasionally.  You might also consider turning your water off while you are away – see article below on master shutoff valves.  It’s after the freeze that split or broken pipes thaw out and extensive damage to your home can occur.

In the event you have no water, please call the District at (303)841-2797, ext. 0 (after hours dial ext. 299 to connect to our answering service).  A District Representative will come to your house and check to see if there is water to the meter. If they determine that water does flow through the meter, you may need to call a plumber or search out the problem on your own.

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Where is my Master Shutoff Valve?

If a water pipe inside your house freezes and begins to leak, would you know what to do?  Would your family? Such nightmares do happen, but damage can be minimized if you’re prepared. It’s a great idea to find and share with all members of your household the location of the master shutoff valve. The valve is usually located inside your home where your water line enters from the meter pit.

Why would you want to shut off this valve? If a pipe breaks inside your house, this valve will turn off all water entering your home. Think about marking it with a tag or paint it a bright color for quick reference. Being prepared and taking quick action could help save your home and family treasures. If you have difficulty finding it, please give us a call at (303) 841-2797 and we will try to assist you.

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Why is the District Flushing Good Water Down the Drain?

Have you ever seen the “flushing” signs in your neighborhood and questioned what that is all about?  Ever wondered why we’re sending gallons and gallons of water down the drain?  Or, where that water is going?  

Over the winter, mineral deposits that occur naturally in the water build up inside the water main due to lower water usage. Every spring, the District “clears” the water mains that serve your home of such build-up by opening fire hydrants. The surge of water delivered out the hydrant is able to pick up the deposits and remove them from the water supply.  While this may seem wasteful, our high water quality is maintained: taste is improved, odor is reduced and color is clearer.  At the same time, fire hydrants are checked for operation and visibility to ensure that should there be a fire, they are operational and easy to find.

It takes nearly two months to complete the flushing cycle throughout the District! The Staff begins flushing the water in late March; watch for signs in your neighborhood.

If you have any questions, just give us a call.

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Turf Management Before, During, and Following Drought in Colorado

This is an excerpt from an article written by Dr. Tony Koski, Extension Turf Specialist, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension.

Precipitation, snow pack, stream flow, and reservoir levels are significantly lower than historic averages throughout Colorado and the Rocky Mountain region. During normal precipitation years, landscape irrigation comprises 50% or more of urban water use during the growing season in the Rocky Mountain region. In anticipation of restrictions in turf irrigation that may be imposed by water utilities, communities, and other water-management entities, the following practices allow you to have a green lawn and still reduce water consumption:

  • Make sure that the irrigation system is operating properly.
  • Replace broken or missing sprinkler heads.
  • Check that the spray heads are turning properly.
  • Adjust heads so that water is not thrown onto streets and driveways.
  • Check nozzles for plugging.
  • Place shallow containers (tuna or cat food cans, yogurt containers, etc.) around the yard and measure output so that you know how long it takes to apply ¼ to ½ inch of water.
  • Place containers on persistent dry spots to determine if poor sprinkler coverage is the problem.
  • Water as infrequently as possible, without causing undue stress to the lawn.
  • Most lawns should be able to tolerate being irrigated every 3-5 days (or even longer).
  • Turn your irrigation controller to the “Manual” position (from “Automatic”) and learn how to operate it manually.
  • Don’t irrigate the lawn on a set schedule (every 2 or 3 days); lawn water use can vary greatly from one day to the next.
  • Irrigate when footprints or mower wheel tracks become easily visible on the turf and large areas of the lawn take on a bluish-gray color.
  • Apply ¾ to 1 inch of water, slowly enough that runoff and puddling does not occur; cycling through irrigation stations or moving your sprinkler around the yard while irrigating helps water to soak more thoroughly and evenly into the lawn.
  • Don’t water again until you see abundant signs of water stress (foot printing, blue/gray coloration) appear in the lawn.
  • Hand-watering small or isolated dry spots can allow you to go another day without watering the entire lawn.
  • Water between 6PM and 9AM, when it is cooler and there is less wind.
  • Avoid heavy or frequent nitrogen fertilization.
  • Lush, fast-growing grass uses more water.
  • Grass that is lush is more likely to be damaged if watering restrictions are imposed.
  • Set your mowing height at 2 ½ to 3 inches (or as high as it can be set); don’t remove more than 3/4 inch of grass at any single mowing; use a sharp blade to reduce tearing of the grass leaves.
  • Be willing to accept a less than perfect lawn; tolerate a few brown spots and edges in the lawn.

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Saving Water Indoors

  1. Don't put water down the drain when there may be another use for it such as watering a plant or garden.
  2. Repair dripping faucets by replacing washers. If your faucet is dripping at the rate of one drop per second, you can expect to waste 2,700 gallons per year.
  3. Check your toilet tank for leaks by adding dye tablets to the tank. If toilet is leaking, color will appear within 30 minutes in the bowl. Flush as soon as the test is done, since the dye may stain the porcelain.
  4. Take shorter showers. Replace your showerhead with an ultra-low-flow version.
  5. Use the minimum amount of water needed for a bath by closing the drain first and filling the tub only 1/3 full. Stopper the tub before turning on the water. Adding hot water later can warm the initial burst of cold water.
  6. Don't let water run while shaving or washing your face. Brush your teeth first while waiting for the water to get hot, then wash or shave after filling the basin.
  7. Operate automatic dishwashers and washing machines only when they are fully loaded and properly set the water level to the size of load you are washing.
  8. Store drinking water in the refrigerator rather then letting the tap run every time you want a cool glass of water.
  9. Consider installing an instant water heater on your kitchen sink so you don't have to let the water run while it heats up.
  10. Insulate your water pipes. You'll get hot water faster plus avoid wasting water while it heats up.

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Saving Water Outdoors

  1. Don't overwater your lawn. As a general rule, lawns only need watering every 3 to 4 days in the summer and every 7 to 8 days in the late fall.
  2. Water lawns during the early morning hours when temperatures and wind speed is the lowest.
  3. Don't water your driveway, sidewalk or street. Position your sprinklers so that your water lands on the lawn or shrubs.
  4. Regularly check sprinkler system and timing devices to be sure they are operating properly.
  5. Skip a watering cycle if it has rained. Add rain and moisture sensors to your automated sprinkler system.
  6. Raise the lawn mower blade to at least three inches. A higher lawn cut encourages grass roots to grow deeper.
  7. Avoid over-fertilizing your lawn. The application of fertilizers increases the need for water.
  8. Mulch to retain moisture in the soil. Mulching also helps to control weeds that compete with plants for water.
  9. Plant native and/or drought tolerant grasses, groundcovers, shrubs and trees. Once established, they do not need to be watered as frequently.
  10. Do not hose down your driveway or sidewalks. Use a broom to clean leaves and other debris from these areas.
  11. Use hose washers between spigots and water hoses to eliminate leaks.

PLEASE HELP US CONSERVE WATER by doing just one thing each day that will save water. Don't worry if the savings is minimal, every DROP counts!

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How “Hard” is my water?   What is Hardness?

Hardness in drinking water is caused primarily by the presence of two minerals; calcium and magnesium. “Soft” water on the other hand has very little amounts of these minerals. A good way to think about it is that making a lather or soapsuds is “hard” with hard water and making a good lather with soft water is easy.

The average hardness of the water supplied by the Pinery Water & Wastewater District is 210ppm (mg/L).  This is considered moderately hard and is to be expected, given the geographic location of the Pinery area. Hardness will not harm you and your District currently does not treat for hardness.

Should you consider a home water treatment system?  This is a personal decision.  These systems are not needed to make the water “safe”. In fact, if not properly maintained, the systems actually may cause water quality problems.  However, some people do not like hard water.  So if you decide to install a treatment system, think about where to install it inside your house.  These systems can be installed on you faucet(s), under your sink, just on your hot water heater or at the point of entry into the house.  A water softener can help eliminate hard water spots on your dishes and glasses.  Most softeners are regenerated with salt.  After the salt is used, it goes down the drain and into the environment.  To prevent unnecessary regenerations, set your softener to regenerate after a selected amount of water has passed through it, rather then using a timer. This prevents wasting salt and water by regenerating too soon, producing a cost savings to you.

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Rain & Moisture Sensors

Rain and moisture sensors are a great water conservation tool for those with large lawns or landscaped areas. Moisture sensors are installed in the ground and measure the moisture received. When the desired amount of moisture in the soil has been reached the sensor shuts off the sprinkler system until moisture is again needed. The most commonly used moisture sensor is the Mini-Click II. Rain sensors, on the other hand, are mounted on the side of a house or building in a place exposed to direct rainfall. These sensors conserve water by suspending irrigation during and after a rainfall. The Rain Switch by TORO is the sensor most widely used by professionals. Sensors can be purchased at most large hardware stores. The moisture sensor retails for about $45.00 and the rain sensor for about $35.00. If you choose to have a professional install your sensor, expect to pay around $85.00 for installation.

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Your Water Meter

The water meter for your home is usually located in a meter pit, at the front of your home near the property line. The water meter pit is a cylindrical vault buried in the ground with a cover and a lid that houses the water meter. The meter lid is approximately one foot in diameter and indicates "Water" on the cover.  Once a month, a District Operator reads the water meter so your usage can be billed.

The meter reader and maintenance personnel need to have ready access to the meter cover and the water meter inside in the event there is a need to shut off the meter. No sod or landscaping material is allowed to cover the meter cover lid. We also request that no shrubbery, rock gardens or trees be planted within 10 feet of the meter so that the Operators can easily access the water meter and maintenance staff will not have to disturb the landscaping if there is a leak at the meter pit. If you have existing shrubs or trees near the meter pit, consider relocating them before they mature. The District is not responsible for replacing them in the event there is a leak at the meter.

The District maintains the waterline from the street to the meter pit, while the homeowner is responsible from the meter pit to the house. All homeowners should be aware of the location of their water meter and the master shut off valve within the house in case there is a leak.

Steps in technology have even addressed water meters.  The District is in the process of installing radio read meters, eliminating the need to physically touch the meter each month.  The transition to radio read meters is anticipated to be completed by the fourth quarter of 2012.  This change will allow for more accurate readings and will reduce the time it takes to read the meters each month.

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Where Does Our Water Get Used?

The American Water Works Association Research Foundation recently completed a study of where water gets used. They did a detailed analysis of 1,188 homes in 12 different cities. The results of this study appear to match the experience of our District. Here is what they found:

Inside water use:

Toilets 26.7%
Clothes Washers 21.7%
Showers 16.8%
Faucets 15.7%
Leaks 13.7%
Other 2.3%
Baths 1.7%
Dishwashers 1.4%

Outside Water use:

Homes with in-ground sprinkler systems use 35% more water than homes without a sprinkler system.
Homes with an automatic timer on their sprinkler system use 47% more water.
Homes with a garden use 30% more water outdoors than homes without a garden.

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Root Control

Tree roots are rapidly becoming a problem encountered by many residents in the Pinery’s older subdivisions. The trees we all love become our worst nightmare in a sewer line with any minor imperfections. Current technology gives us several solutions for this condition. Option one is to call a plumber every one to two years and have the roots cut out. But, this will soon destroy your sewer lines. Option two is dig up your sewer service and repair the problem. This can be very costly, destroy landscaping and harm mature trees. Option three is a product called RootX. This product kills roots in the sewer line and prevents their re-growth for up to one year. You can purchase similar products from your plumber, but DO NOT PURCHASE PRODUCTS THAT CONTAIN COPPER SULFATE. The EPA has approved RootX for use in all fifty states. RootX will not harm your trees, only the roots that intrude into your sewer. RootX can be purchased at the District office. Please call the office at (303) 841-2797 for additional information.

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Fats, Oils, & Greases aren't just artery and waistline killers…..they're bad for sewers, too!
(Water Environment Federation)

Sewer overflows and backups can cause health hazards, damage home interiors, and threaten the environment. An increasingly common cause of overflows is sewer pipes blocked by grease.  Grease gets into the sewer from household drains as well as from poorly maintained grease traps in restaurants and other businesses.

Where does the grease come from?

 Most of us know grease as the byproduct of cooking. Grease is found in such things as:

  • Meat fats
  • Lard
  • Cooking oil
  • Shortening
  • Butter and margarine
  • Food scraps
  • Baking goods
  • Sauces
  • Dairy products

Too often, grease is washed into the plumbing system, usually through the kitchen sink. Grease sticks to the insides of sewer pipes (both on your property and in the streets). Over time, the grease can build up and block the entire pipe.  Home garbage disposals do not keep grease out of the plumbing system. These units only shred solid material into smaller pieces and do not prevent grease from going down the drain. Commercial additives, including detergents, which claim to dissolve grease, may actually pass grease down the line and cause problems in other areas.

The results can be:

  • Raw sewage overflowing in your home or your neighbor's home, an expensive and unpleasant cleanup that often must be paid for by you, the homeowner;
  • Raw sewage overflowing into parks, yards, and streets;
  • Potential contact with disease-causing organisms; and
  • An increase in operation and maintenance costs for local sewer departments, which causes higher sewer bills for customers

What we can do to help?

The easiest way to solve the grease problem and help prevent overflows of raw sewage is to keep this material out of the sewer system in the first place.

There are several ways to do this:

  • Never pour grease down sink drains or into toilets.
  • Scrape grease and food scraps from trays, plates, pots, pans, utensils, and grills and cooking surfaces into a can or the trash for disposal (or recycling where available).
  • Do not put grease down garbage disposals. Put baskets/strainers in sink drains to catch food scraps and other solids, and empty the drain baskets/strainers into the trash for disposal.
  • Speak with your friends and neighbors about the problem of grease in the sewer system and how to keep it out. Call your local sewer system authority if you have any questions.

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Why does my water appear milky or cloudy?

A temporary milky or cloudy appearance is usually caused by air bubbles in the water, which poses no risk to your health.  If the water is allowed to sit, the air will dissipate and the water will clear.  If the cloudiness does not disappear, please flush your plumbing at the highest spot in the house for five minutes.  If the issue persists, please contact the District so that we may investigate.

What causes spots/film on my dishes/glasses?

Spots or film on your dishes are typically caused by:

  • Variances in water temperature

  • Dish detergent

  • Hard water

  • Minerals that remain after the water has evaporated

 Spots may be reduced through use of a dishwasher rinse agent.  If the film is removable (versus permanently etched into the glass), check out the attached story for additional suggestions:  http://www.9news.com/news/story.aspx?storyid=157771.

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Should I buy a water softener?

The hardness of water varies with the District’s water sources.  The choice to buy a softener is really a personal one since hard water is not harmful to your health.  It is important to know that water softeners typically increase the sodium content of the water, a factor that should be considered by people on a low-sodium diet.

If you choose to install a softener, the District’s average “hardness” is 210 ppm (mg/L) or 11.5 grains per gallon.  This information will be helpful in setting up your softener.

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Should I buy a home filtration unit?

According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, home treatment units are rarely necessary for health reasons.  Most often, water treatment units are used to remove substances that affect the aesthetic qualities of the water.  If you do choose to install a home treatment unit, it is important to follow the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions because improperly maintained units can actually cause water quality problems.   Additional information is available at http://www.nsf.org/consumer/drinking_water/dw_treatment.asp.

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What should I do if my coffee has an oily appearance?

We recommend cleaning your coffee maker with vinegar and water, or as directed by the manufacturer.

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What causes the hot water to have an odor?

The most common culprit of odor in hot water is the water heater.  If your cold water smells fine, check your water heater to ensure that the temperature setting is correct.  Water heaters need to be maintained and flushed on a regular basis (see manufacturer’s instructions). 

Please contact the District if an odor is present in both the hot and cold water.

 

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Why does the taste of my water change throughout the year?

Water sources change at certain times of the year due to the availability of our supplies (deep wells versus alluvial sources).  Surface water, or water that comes from sources like Cherry Creek, tend to taste slightly different than water pumped from the deep underground aquifers.

If your water tastes “stale”, it’s likely because it’s been sitting in your service line for a period of time (or perhaps your ice cubes have become stale).  Run your faucet for about five minutes to flush out your house pipes.  If this does not resolve your issue, please contact the District for assistance.

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What causes water to be discolored?

Color in water is usually caused by naturally occurring organic matter, minerals or mineral build-up in the pipes.  The District flushes our system regularly to clean mineral build-up and other sediment from the pipes.  However, if you receive discolored water, let your faucets run until the water is clear.  Such substances typically do not pose a health hazard; however, we ask that you please report any instances of discolored water so that we may investigate.

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Is bottled water higher quality than tap water?

Tap water and bottled water providers must meet the same water quality standards.  Surprisingly, tap water providers are required to conduct more frequent water quality testing and reporting than bottled water providers.  Some consumers prefer the taste of bottled water, and some choose bottled water because they have special health needs.  But, tap water is a much better deal at costs of 1,000 times less than bottled water… and some bottled waters actually originate from a municipal supply! 

Still want more information?  http://www.rd.com/health/rethink-what-you-drink

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Did you know the biggest water waster in your house can be your toilet!?

Whether you have a constant or intermittent leak, OR you have an old style toilet that uses multiple gallons with each flush, you might just want to check this out!

Sometimes all you need to do is replace the leaky flapper, but sometimes it might be a good idea to replace your old toilet with a more water efficient model.

Douglas County Water Resources Authority presents the following two-minute videos to assist with replacing or repairing your toilet.  They take the mystery out of exactly how to do it!

Save water, save money. It's easy!
Here’s the link to the “toilet replacement” video:  
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QawfQldnkUY
And, a link to replacing the flapper in your toilet: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diJ3xuZJTXk

For more information on WaterSense labeled toilets:  http://www.epa.gov/watersense/products/toilets.html

Douglas County Water Resource Authority - Serious Conservation, Serious Results http://www.DCWater.org

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Copyright ©  2013 Pinery Water & Wastewater District  
 all rights reserved. 
Date last modified: May 02, 2013